Tuesday, 10 February 2009

Morey-St-Denis, En La Rue de Vergy, Bruno Clair 1998

My neighbour took in a case of this wine yesterday, delivered from my reserves. Her fee; a bottle of Scavinos very drinkable Rosso di Tavola 2005 that combines bright black cherry with Piedmontese tannins to create an excellent long saturday shoulder of lamb lunch acompaniment. Ripe and structured and with bundles more fruit than your everyday Rosso di Tavola. Very accomplished.

The burgundy I couldn't resist, cracking a bottle as soon as I got home. Good pinot, with a little age needs little excuse save for a hungry palate and a willing audience. I had one, and soon I had the other as a knock at the door signalled a friend over to collect some frozen mice from my freezer - a remnant of my days snake-sitting.

Morey St Denis always conjures sweet fruit for me. It has the prettiness of chambolle with the depth of a gevrey. And this didn't disappoint. High-toned strawberries, minerals and a whiff of autumn pipe smoke on the nose, and some clearly stated concentration on the palate. Classic Clair this, not an ounce of tomfoolery here just pure pinot Morey fruit. The merest hint of aged pinot creeps in but purely to complement the absolute grace in which this mans burgundy ages. Thoroughly enjoyable, I couldn't help but repeat my mantra that a good bottle should leave two of you wanting just a little more. It should, as it did, put a slight spring in your step and give you the urge to talk and laugh and love. This is not the most profound bottle you'll find. But it does give you all the pleasure that a mid-range burgundy should - it makes you want to have fun and I had to be held back from drinking another bottle. Which my date tomorrow should thank me for.

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